
What’s the word for a fondue expert? A Fonduesier? A Cheeselier? Fondanatic? Whatever it is, I like to feel in my own way, I am one. I’ve had two birthdays in a row at Soho’s famous St Moritz and am the first to go for fondue whenever I’m visiting an even remotely Swiss country.
Rule number 1: it has to be cheese. I’ve never understood the appeal of cooking small slithers of meat in bubbling hot oil. It doesn’t make for a better meat dish and you just end up burning yourself. Don’t even get me started on chocolate fondue (not a thing). Rule 2: it has to boozy. Have a fondue in America and there’s a risk you get the under-21 version, I want...